Lol. I can find build you a transistor power amp for 15 shekels that can drive HD650's to deafening volume. It's not about volume though, and you know that. I don't get your point. You seem to judge an amp by its ability to drive specific headphones.
It's like saying that a <insert decent car here> is worth crap cause you cant fit a couch in it (so go buy a truck), and for what it does, you could buy a <insert crap car here> which also drives, but costs less.
תגובות לביקורת מגבר אוזניות נייד Mini3 V.2
- danlior
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I think you meant to say "it's not just about the volume"It's not about volume though...
If to use your line of reasoning: It would be like trying to sell a very high quality car that can't drive faster than 20 KPH
A good headphone amp should first of all be able to drive headphones
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MartinHSabag
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Not quite. Your statements say that if the car cant drive fast on a really steep hill, it's not worth anything, even if it drives perfectly on a flat road.
Not everyone has insensitive high impedance headphones (steep roads). Many people know they''ll use something for specific needs, in this case, if someone knew they'd only need to drive on a flat plane, its perfectly fine to buy that car. Anyway, its a VERY limited analogy. The point is that you're saying the car is a crap truck, and thats not even entirely true.
Also, and you may eventually come to learn this, that things can be built specifically for other things, and are often BEST when properly matched. When you say a headphone amp should be able to drive headphones, I agree, but not necessarily ALL headphones. An amp can be designed to drive specific headphones (or specific groups of headphones) very well, and shouldn't be judged as bad when one tries it in a group other than what it was built for (which the reviewers intelligently accounted for).
Fortunately for this amp, changing it's nature is a matter of switching out a few resistors. No, it wont become a monster truck or your dream ferrari, but it sure as hell beats walking
Not everyone has insensitive high impedance headphones (steep roads). Many people know they''ll use something for specific needs, in this case, if someone knew they'd only need to drive on a flat plane, its perfectly fine to buy that car. Anyway, its a VERY limited analogy. The point is that you're saying the car is a crap truck, and thats not even entirely true.
Also, and you may eventually come to learn this, that things can be built specifically for other things, and are often BEST when properly matched. When you say a headphone amp should be able to drive headphones, I agree, but not necessarily ALL headphones. An amp can be designed to drive specific headphones (or specific groups of headphones) very well, and shouldn't be judged as bad when one tries it in a group other than what it was built for (which the reviewers intelligently accounted for).
Fortunately for this amp, changing it's nature is a matter of switching out a few resistors. No, it wont become a monster truck or your dream ferrari, but it sure as hell beats walking
- danlior
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HD650 are not "hard to drive headphones", as I said, I can easily drive these headphones with any receiver at any price, so why not with a dedicated headphones amp?Not everyone has insensitive high impedance headphones...
So why wasn't it done in the first place?changing it's nature is a matter of switching out a few resistors...
מסיבה הפשוטה שזה מגביר את הרעש. זה למה אם תחבר אוזניות נצילות לרסיבר שלך יהיה רעש רקע.
את ה-650 אתה יכול לחבר גם לתחת של פיל וזה יהיה שקט.
קח משהו נציל וקל לדחיפה ואז תבדוק.
קח משהו נציל וקל לדחיפה ואז תבדוק.
There are other advantages to setting the gain right. With a gain setting too high, for instance, the volume would be really loud with lower impedance headphones, this means you'll have to turn the knob very little to get high volumes, which means it'll be hard to get to specific volumes since every little change in volume knob angle is a big change in volume. The point Anatoli made is another very important one. The point is that the amp was made specifically for certain headphones. and can be made to match different headphones.
The amp was designed specifically for my headphones
(By the way, if you haven't noticed, I built the specific amp that was reviewed )
Also, a reason not to use a receiver is that it was designed for speakers, which require much more power. Building a high quality system with lower power requirements is much easier, and much cheaper. If you want to build a speaker amp with the same "sound quality (not volume, obviously) as a given headphone amp you would have to spend MUCH MUCH more than you would on a headphone amp with the same quality..
The great thing about DIY, too, is that you can create the sound you like by choosing individual components that have the characteristics that contribute to the desired sound and one of the components are the headphones. It's like fine tuning your system. change a component, and the nature of it changes too. Or just build another
I have quiet a few variations of the same type of amps in some cases, and listen to different ones with different music. whatever tickles my fancy.. They all beat most any receiver, too..
Oh, and you'd die when you hear what a good DAC can do to your system good stuff....
The amp was designed specifically for my headphones
(By the way, if you haven't noticed, I built the specific amp that was reviewed ) Also, a reason not to use a receiver is that it was designed for speakers, which require much more power. Building a high quality system with lower power requirements is much easier, and much cheaper. If you want to build a speaker amp with the same "sound quality (not volume, obviously) as a given headphone amp you would have to spend MUCH MUCH more than you would on a headphone amp with the same quality..
The great thing about DIY, too, is that you can create the sound you like by choosing individual components that have the characteristics that contribute to the desired sound and one of the components are the headphones. It's like fine tuning your system. change a component, and the nature of it changes too. Or just build another
I have quiet a few variations of the same type of amps in some cases, and listen to different ones with different music. whatever tickles my fancy.. They all beat most any receiver, too..
Oh, and you'd die when you hear what a good DAC can do to your system
good stuff.... - danlior
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ruZZil
For which headphones was it built ?
If you build an amp and declare it as propietery for a specific kind of headphones, than that's OK
For which headphones was it built ?
If you build an amp and declare it as propietery for a specific kind of headphones, than that's OK
As an owner of a Meridian DAC, I think I have a good ideaOh, and you'd die when you hear what a good DAC can do to your system...
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Ultrasone ProLine 750 (40ohm). But in regards to the mini^3, the only thing worth tweaking is the gain, so it's pretty much standard and set at a "medium" gain setting and is suitable for most dynamic headphones. it will have pretty low noise and decent volume knob travel for low Z headphones, and use-able on higher Z if they have decent efficiency. Really sensitive low Z cans may pick up on some noise, and there wont be much volume travel before hitting pretty high volumes. If the amp were intended to be used with IEMs/LOW Z only, I'd have used a lower gain setting, as to keep the noise levels lower.
Some amplifiers have gain switches, enabling one to easily switch. The mini^3 uses VERY good op-amps, but one of their downsides is that they could be unstable with too much feedback noise, so a switch in the feedback path wouldn't go well. What's good 'bout the mini^3 design and layout is that it keeps the op-amps pretty happy. Oh well.. can't have it all, but it's got a great value/performance/size ratio, which the consumer market just can't beat. Obviously, when size becomes less of a factor, things change.. A PIMETA with discrete buffers would probably beat it, and you can use a bunch of op-amps there too. It would cost a little more to build though and is around double the size. You probably could find an amp to outperform the mini^3 at that size, but it'll probably cost almost twice twice as much. Take a look at:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f105/re ... d-214588/
[/left]
Ultrasone ProLine 750 (40ohm). But in regards to the mini^3, the only thing worth tweaking is the gain, so it's pretty much standard and set at a "medium" gain setting and is suitable for most dynamic headphones. it will have pretty low noise and decent volume knob travel for low Z headphones, and use-able on higher Z if they have decent efficiency. Really sensitive low Z cans may pick up on some noise, and there wont be much volume travel before hitting pretty high volumes. If the amp were intended to be used with IEMs/LOW Z only, I'd have used a lower gain setting, as to keep the noise levels lower.
Some amplifiers have gain switches, enabling one to easily switch. The mini^3 uses VERY good op-amps, but one of their downsides is that they could be unstable with too much feedback noise, so a switch in the feedback path wouldn't go well. What's good 'bout the mini^3 design and layout is that it keeps the op-amps pretty happy. Oh well.. can't have it all, but it's got a great value/performance/size ratio, which the consumer market just can't beat. Obviously, when size becomes less of a factor, things change.. A PIMETA with discrete buffers would probably beat it, and you can use a bunch of op-amps there too. It would cost a little more to build though and is around double the size. You probably could find an amp to outperform the mini^3 at that size, but it'll probably cost almost twice twice as much. Take a look at:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f105/re ... d-214588/
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